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Thread: feeder/webcam setup

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  1. #1
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    feeder/webcam setup

    so after much though i finally convinced my grandmother to let me setup a deer feeder and a IP Camera to stream to a website so anyone in family or friends can watch the feeder anytime anywhere with any device.

    im getting kinda excited about this project and got 400$ to work with on this, already picked up my feeder.
    moultrie deer feeder 30gallon, going to buy the solar panel kit and rechargable 6v battery for it, that way no one has to be around the feeder for it to stay running, ill probably just setup for now 1 time a day to feed about 1-2lbs of corn till spring time and i might bump it to 2 times a day.
    going to run a underground cat5 cable from house to where i want the webcam setup to be located at, and do a Point of Entry kit for power to run threw the ethernet cord as well to cam, burry the line and setup a post and a nice box around the cam to protect it from the elements as much as possiable. be about 200-300 ft away from home.

    down where she lives in kentucky she use to have about 10 deer and multiple turkey around but since my grandfather passed away she stopped feeding them regularly and they kinda have moved more into the woods, so im hopeing this way i can get the deer back to there house and keep them healthy and setup myself for a good hunt next year :)

    also behind the barn (600ft away from the house) is a small 2 acher plot that i might experiment with a food plot of clovers or something, any suggestions on what kind of seed i should plant back there for a food plot?

    any and all suggestes i greatly appreciate !

  2. #2
    Senior Member mrbb's Avatar
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    Well sounds like you have put some thought and work into this project, good to hear and look forward to seeing in up and running, wish I could set one up at where I hunt
    as for suggestions for a food plot
    well clover is a good idea, as it grows well and last fairly long, BUT it does need come TLC to stay prime, like weed control, mowing a few times a yr, will make it last longer, as will treating it by sprating it for weeds, as if not every yr, or even in one yr, the weeds will over take the plot, and choke out the clover
    another good plant, is chichory, it can also be mixed with the clover seed and make for a good mixed crop plot, chichory, tends to last longer /staying greener better after a few front, where clover will pucker up after them, and then the plot will be more attractive later into hunting season, by planting both
    best advice is, do it right, do a soil test, add whqt's the test say is needed to get soil at right PH and base line to grow seeds well
    kill/burn down the sight well before seeding/too, to help kill as many weed seeds as you Can
    be glad to explain how better if you like, but clover/chichory blend would be my suggestion for a plot

  3. #3
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    well the ground in question is a old tabacco field at a small cove between 2 mountains and a creek that runs along the side of one hill side and works its way back to the back, thick woods at far back and up both moutain sides, i was thinking of doing maybe a 100ft by 100ft patch or something kinda in the middle instead of doing the whole field, i was thinking next trip i would head down and till up the land with the tractor and let it sit for a few months, then repeat the process before planting, as for burning it off only thing that is back there at this point is just grass and any seeds that would of fallen around from the trees and such, so thinking chemical killing? round up? i was trying NOT to use chemicals but dont have access to a torch, only other option would be gas and a lighter :)

    as for seeds , i guess ill be limited to buying clover/chichory online?

  4. #4
    Senior Member mrbb's Avatar
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    ok sounds like you have a plan of sorts
    100x100 ft(69 yrds x69 yrds-'s an acre)
    OK so that size is about a 1/3 an acre or so
    turning it over now is a great idea, BUT better idea is doing a soil test first, reason being is, if you do a soil test now, it will tell you what lime it needs, lime is what makes or breaks the soil PH level's, but lime has to be worked into the soil to work and that takes time
    so if you do a soil test, find out say it needs 1,000 lbs of lime per acre(330 lbs then for your site)
    adding the lime before you till it/turn it over will save you from needed to do that a second or third time
    so if possible that is step #1, that should be done
    next, as for things in the field, Grass /weeds are the number one plot killer, they are the fastest growing and hardest thing to get rid of or keep from taking/off in a plot
    number one problem , weeds/grass
    its not just killing what you see, its the fact there are millions of seeds in the gfround every where, once you turn it over, you will in return be exposing all sorts of new seeds to sun light which in return will cause more new weeds to grow
    My best advice or found ways to work this out is this on site prep, planting plots
    soil test#1
    2-add needed lime(NOT fertilizer yet, just lime)
    3- turn plot over mixing lime in good
    4- let site sit for a few weeks5-6 weeks, let green up start yo happen,
    5- turn ste over again
    6- 4-5 weeks later now into green up, Spray plot to kill everything that just came up, to try to kill every new seed and any old one's that re grew
    wait 2-3 weeks, check on any new weeds coming up, spot spray to kill them to
    7- watch weather, wait for a rain storm coming soon, , closer to actual rain the better
    8- now this site is still soft from the 2 turn over, should now be very weed free, from weeed control steps
    rain is on its way, or hell even lightly raining
    NOW add fertilizer, and seeds, let the rain cover and plant the seeds after you just broadcast them on the site
    if you do this, you should have a great site, untill all the rest of the weeds in your area come to seed up, and then , as the wind blows, it will blow weed seeds int your new plot, nature of the beast, sadly, no way to stop this, closer you are to weeds, more seeds you get, I have found bunring down a border 4-5 ft wide around my plots help slow some, but??? the wind is hard to stop LOL
    which brings to plot up keeping, this comes in forms of either spraying to maintain plots, and or mowing
    mowing works, key here is to stay ahead of seedheads forming, if you can mow before the seeds on the weeds/grasses seedhead, mowing works great
    the BETTER you prep the site and plant the seeds/AKA th better the take of the desired seeds(clover/chichory) the stronger the faster it grows, the thicker it gets, the harder it is for weeds to grow, as they need to start from the ground up, clover and chichory makes a broader leaf plant and a Thick plot will make a lot of shade, helping prevent weed seeds n to grow from the ground up, as they need sunlight to grow, more shade, less ability for new wind blown seeds to take off!
    chemical control, works better if you ask me, as you will always have weed in a plot, spraying helps Kill any that came up at same time as your desired plot plant
    spraying can be some what easy and cheap, but it can also get expensive if you really do it right and or need to do it several times
    not to sound negative, cause it not my goal,
    just being honest
    you can use off brand names chemicals and even seeds and save a BUNCH of cash, they do work too, its what I use and have for yrs, so there are savings that can be done, it comes down to doing research to find ways to make plots last and being at prices you can live with, just I don't want folks to think you just turn ground over and seed and all is a big buck killing gold mine
    doesn't work that way
    like most things in life, you get what you put into things out of them
    sorry if long winded, but trying to help with best info I can

    can explain more if you want too, have more than 20+ yrs now of planting food plots

    as for seeds,brand name is fine, but so are off brand names, find your local AG storte near where you plan to plant, ask about buying seeds by the LB, clover comes in many types(red /white/ ladino, etc.)
    so price's vary based on what type, also, some grow wider taller or???, all clover, deer will eat!
    chichory also, has a few different types, but no where near as many
    but buying from a AG stor(like AG way)
    will save you a ton of money, NO 1/3 acre plot will make small bucks huge, so no big name seed is needed, that claims to make "X" amount more protien than brand "X" does
    that's a lot of hype
    in a perfect senario, over time it can help maybe, MAYBE make bigger bucks, stronger healthier herds, but any plot will attract deer

    any plot is better than NONE! hands down, you will pull new deer, you will make your hunting lands more attractive to all sorts of wildlife, and it will amke hunting easier (when done right and hunted right)

  5. #5
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    ill post a arial shot of the field or fields in question tonight so i can get more input esp for hunting purposes, i would hate to do all this work and find out i cant hunt this field cause i have no access to it.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Strother23's Avatar
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    Yea. All of thAt sounds like a really good idea. Challenging but a cool idea. As far as food plot I would add in some stuff that will bring the deer in during the winter when food is scarce. Keep us updated as you go
    STROTHER INFINITY
    RIPCORD REST
    TRUGLOW SIGHT
    ICS BEMAN ARROWS
    TRU-FIRE RELEASE
    28.5 DRAW 65LBS

  7. #7
    Senior Member mrbb's Avatar
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    If your talking about so call throw and grow slaes pitched seeds
    Well, sure there good seeds, but all seeds need to make contact with soil, and soil must be at right PH levels, and have enough fertilizer to make it grow and continue to grow
    there is no magic seed
    the better you prep the site, and follow what it needs the better it will come out
    short cuts never work for long

  8. #8
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    i was just thinking for the hard to access land to toss that out with the atv up there. i figured would ask about it,

  9. #9
    Senior Member mrbb's Avatar
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    OK I understand that part, and that's also why they market it, , BUT the problem really is, that because of the pre existing plants and weeds already growing there, they will out grow and thus shade out any new weaker seeds, as in a throw and grow deal
    NOW if you spray the site to kill the what ever, and then seed it, IT might work, I say MIGHT because seeds really need to contact soil to mature and grow
    so if the sit is just dead, and there is matter, be it leave's gras, dead what ever, preventing the seed from making contact with the soil, and or the ground just being too hard, the seeds honestly just cannot grow
    thus most throw and grow, seeds will just be wasted, and you get a poor take
    some of the , have so call fertilizer and what nots, sprayed onto the seeds to help boost there odds of growing, I don't buy into that all that much, way too much of that coating will wash off before the plant starts to grow and that , when the roots are growing is when a new plant needs fertilizer and likes, not when its in seed form, when its growing
    I will NOR say something won't grow just by throwing and hoping, as some should come up, but I doubt much will really take hold, and also will survive the striggles of trying to out grow weeds
    weeds tend to win them wars, adn they grow faster and alrerady have deeper roots than a new plant

    if you can get an ATV there you can work in a food plot if you have the time and willing to do the work
    drive atv there, spray site once green up happens
    many AG stores rent Tillers, if you don;t have one, many tillers can be put on a small trailer and hauled in there, and work that site after it dies down
    , or you can invest in a small disc made just for an ATV, the heavier made the better it will work, but sadly they don't come cheap, a decent one will run 600-700 bucks, but will last a LONG time, so over the yrs, its a cheap investment, and in todays world, they sell fast used too, so you can always flip it
    or go to farm estate auctions,a look for an old drag harrow, they are almost all made in sections, and a section is about 3 ft wide, and can be taken apart and used behind an atv real easy, and many old harrows can be found dirt cheap, I bought several over the past few yrs for like 50 bucks, and ended up taking them apart and sell ing them , and made more money back than I spent
    I have used one for about 15 yrs behind my atv too, so I know they can work and they are easy again to find if you just drive about old farms, most older farms have one sitting in there yard some where on the property, as NO farmers use them these days, so they just sit, and most will again sell, due to that, theer just iron lawn ornaments now! so cash talks

    or if your willing to actually do hard work, a pick and a shovel and a rake can make a plot happen too, but it will take a lot longer and put your back to the test!
    but I have done many like that yrs back, before ATV's were common!(late 80's) so like they say where there is a will, there is a way!

  10. #10
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    and that makes since, i do have access to a larger tiller but i know ill have to spend alot of time getting that thing running again, cause its been sitting in a shead for years LOL. ill work on the access road too and see if i cant get the tractor up there as well, that might be better for long term anyway.

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