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Thread: Self fletching and Muzzy

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    Self fletching and Muzzy

    Shooting 27" Gold Tips and 2" vanes at 58 pounds. Question is; will a mini right helical be enough to keep my arrows accurate even at long ranges while shooting 100 grain MX3 Muzzys?

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    Senior Member Big_Holla's Avatar
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    A helical will definitely help. About the only way you will know would be to shoot the broadheads and practice with them at those longer ranges. If you notice a lot of changes from your broadheads to the field tips you may have a bow that is out of tune and need to do some adjusting. I would caution taking too long of a shot on game though as I am concerned that is where this post is headed. Every piece of equipment has limitations and draw weight, broadhead accuracy, field conditions, etc. limit everything. Just remember, archery is an up close sport and pushing the limits can increase the chances of lost game and wounded animals.
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    Senior Member hortontoter's Avatar
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    Very good advice, Chuck.
    I may be opinionated...but, my opinion is the only one that matters anyway.

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    you will want as much helical as you can with muzzy heads. More importantly with any fixed blade heads you want to be sure the broadhead and insert are square to the shaft. Then there is spine..

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    Yeah I know about accuracy and limiting your shots at animals been doing this 20+ years, now I don't mean that negatively nor did I take your reply that way. Just need opinions on tuning and fletching from experience and anything someone has tried with success or failure. I'm not a great bow shot and never have been according to the standard of what I would like to be and just want to get better. I've gone to a hinge release and a better bow and now looking for a few ways to hone in a little tighter.

    Also got a lighted nock that is not sticking in the shaft enough to turn the light on, so what is good to do to fix this. The light works outside of the shaft if pushed by hand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BucksandBass View Post
    Yeah I know about accuracy and limiting your shots at animals been doing this 20+ years, now I don't mean that negatively nor did I take your reply that way. Just need opinions on tuning and fletching from experience and anything someone has tried with success or failure. I'm not a great bow shot and never have been according to the standard of what I would like to be and just want to get better. I've gone to a hinge release and a better bow and now looking for a few ways to hone in a little tighter.

    Also got a lighted nock that is not sticking in the shaft enough to turn the light on, so what is good to do to fix this. The light works outside of the shaft if pushed by hand.
    take a little bit of sand paper and turn the nock on your hand with the sand paper wrapped around the insert part of the nock. do not force it and split the end of your arrow. Double check to make sure that you have the right lighted nock for your arrow also. i fletch with a bitzenberger and and a arizona ez-fletch, spine check with a apple spinner and square my inserts with a G5 ASD

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    Senior Member Big_Holla's Avatar
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    OK, so you are experienced and don't want to be lectured, I can understand that. Generally when people are asking about accuracy at long ranges it means they want to push their limits. What ranges are we talking then?

    By mini I am assuming you mean Blazer type or perhaps NAP Quickfletch type vanes? If you are using the Blazer vanes I would recommend using the Bohning Blazer Helix to get as much twist on the vanes as possible (if using Blazers). The more you get the rear of the arrow spinning the less likely the broadhead end will take over and steer the arrow.

    As far as tuning goes you can do several things. First and foremost I would recommend reviewing some of the information on the Easton website in regards to tuning and how important shaft spine is:

    http://www.eastonarchery.com/software

    Of course all of the following questions would need to be answered once you have re-fletched your arrows and can see if you still have a problem. How do the broadheads group compared to themselves? Compared to the field tips? What distances are you shooting out to? If the broadheads group together and the field points group together but the two groups are not at the same impact point then there are additional things/methods you can learn to do to help correct the problem.
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    Senior Member ohiowhitetails's Avatar
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    I fletched up some 2in blazers with a helical jig. I shoot a 3 blade fixed broadhead and it increased spin resulting in tighter groups. I'm shooting roughly low 320s with my hunting shafts. as stated above, make sure your bow is tuned properly.
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    Mini is the amount of helical on the fletching vise, sorry I didn't explain myself. Is it better to use Blazer vanes, Quick Spins, or some brand that make the arrow spin even if they are fletched straight or use a brand that do not do this and the only spin is from the helical amount?

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    Senior Member Big_Holla's Avatar
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    OK, I would still say the more helical you can put into the vane (in my case Blazers) possible. I have heard or seen on other forums people complaining about added noise from Quick Spin type vanes so I have never ventured into those. Generally the only spin in the arrow will come from the vanes. The faster the spin, the straighter the arrow flies.
    Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.
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