View Full Version : broadhead help pls ?
Whitetail Freak
08-08-2012, 12:58 PM
i shoot a pse durango compound set at 29in and 65lbs i shoot gold tip xt hunter arrows and 100 gr nap thunderhead fixed heads my ?/problem is this some times my inserts wont let me line up my vanes with my fixed blades if they line up they fly pretty true if there off they dont fly worth a crap do you have to have blade n vanes lineup for fixed blades to fly true or is there something iam missing hear? i shot rage heads last yr but when i missed a doe at 12yds the head was destroyed n non reusuable thats alotta $ to throw away if ya miss or pass through n the head is junk so i went bk to fixed for better durability some one pls help me i have to have to pull unserts n reglue i no it aint a big deal but time is not my friends now a days as a single dad n work n all lol thanks yall anyinfo will help.......Freak
hortontoter
08-08-2012, 01:25 PM
I shoot a crossbow so what I have learned may not apply to your situation. I found that the wider the cutting diameter on a broadhead the more tricky it was to make them fly well. I started out with Thunderheads and they gave me headaches. I finally settled on shooting the older 4 bladed Muzzys with a 1 inch cutting diameter which seem to be much more consistent for me.
buckstalker17
08-08-2012, 02:37 PM
i shoot a pse durango compound set at 29in and 65lbs i shoot gold tip xt hunter arrows and 100 gr nap thunderhead fixed heads my ?/problem is this some times my inserts wont let me line up my vanes with my fixed blades if they line up they fly pretty true if there off they dont fly worth a crap do you have to have blade n vanes lineup for fixed blades to fly true or is there something iam missing hear? i shot rage heads last yr but when i missed a doe at 12yds the head was destroyed n non reusuable thats alotta $ to throw away if ya miss or pass through n the head is junk so i went bk to fixed for better durability some one pls help me i have to have to pull unserts n reglue i no it aint a big deal but time is not my friends now a days as a single dad n work n all lol thanks yall anyinfo will help.......Freak
A trick I've learned over time when I have that problem is to install the the broad head on the insert before you install the insert in the arrow just make sure u get the broad head tight after that u should be good after that hope this helps you. My muzzy 3 blades flew better if they were inline with the vaines but my rages did not make a diff where the were set at.
Just 1 More
08-08-2012, 03:27 PM
NO.. you do not need to have your broadhead lined up with your vanes.. how would you line up a 4 blade with 3 vanes??? What you need is a well tuned bow.. one that shoots broadheads and fieldpoints to the same POI
buckstalker17
08-08-2012, 04:20 PM
NO.. you do not need to have your broadhead lined up with your vanes.. how would you line up a 4 blade with 3 vanes??? What you need is a well tuned bow.. one that shoots broadheads and fieldpoints to the same POI
??????? so do i keep buying bows and tuning them till i find a bow that shoots broad heads the same as field tips a fixed broad head will shoot diff than a field tip in flight be leave that ///// the muzzy 3 blade do fly better when u line up the vanes just sayn not trying to be a smart elic
well I agree to a point, a in tune bow will shoot with less problems, many times it is a bow not squared up
but I also think many times having vanes and fletching lined up helps
but its not the fix all
everything has to be in tune with each part
I shoot rage heads now, less worries about broadhead field point accuracy
as for them not being durable
well I am a guy that only shoot one deer with a head and retires it
any head can get out of balance or bent even a little and cause problems
so, me, I kill a deer, and park it, or use it for shooting stumps from the stand or maybe at a tree rat
but not at a deer
way I see it is, I spend X amount of dollars planning waiting for hinting season to get here, not chancing a shot at a deer on a second run head
might be over kill to many , but thats how I view it
how many deer a yr do you shoot might make it more costly, but if its one or two
, whats 20 bucks a yr for piece of mind in my book!
I second the glue the insert in after broad head is mounted
I don't shoot carbon
but can't you reheat the insert and turn it on them as on aluminum??
bigcountry
08-08-2012, 06:34 PM
when i was shooting my muzzy fixed blades i found that if it didnt line up right id keep swapping the broadheads around until i got all of em except for 1 that lined up right..lol..so that one was placed at the back of my quiver and used for a squirrel or something when i got bored..lol..other than that all you need to do is reheat up the tip of shaft ( you can actually do it over the stove) and pull the insert out and twist to where you want it to be...take like 2 minutes quick and easy IMO
ohiowhitetails
08-08-2012, 07:41 PM
My 100 gr slick tricks are not lined up with my vanes. They fly right with my FP
buckstalker17
08-08-2012, 08:14 PM
My muzzys were fine inside 30 yards but outside 30 they would never stay grouped but turned aligned the broad heads no more problems
I too agree with a using a broadhead one time , they need to be as sharp as possible.
But that isnt the question.... What shaft are you using 5575 or 7595 , I would guess you are shooting a 30 inch shaft atleast .The Gold Tip chart shows you should be using the 7595s with a shaft length of 29.5 inches or greater , that too can cause you bad arrow flight , seeing how your bow is a single cam tunning can be off a hair and not effect it that much , But i shoot Mathews bows which are single cams as well and do prefer the stiffer spined shafts. The charts are a starting point but with single cam bows do like the heavier stiffer shafts . If you have 5575s that may be causing some of your problems and when you put a fixed blade on the end of it, you just magnifie the problem. I see you are in Wayne county If you have never been to the Fin Feather Fur in Ashland , i recommend you take your bow and let them tune your bow for you and get it squared up for you , your knock travel etc. There is a charge for this $20.00 or somewhere around there.
Whitetail Freak
08-09-2012, 12:20 PM
I too agree with a using a broadhead one time , they need to be as sharp as possible.
But that isnt the question.... What shaft are you using 5575 or 7595 , I would guess you are shooting a 30 inch shaft atleast .The Gold Tip chart shows you should be using the 7595s with a shaft length of 29.5 inches or greater , that too can cause you bad arrow flight , seeing how your bow is a single cam tunning can be off a hair and not effect it that much , But i shoot Mathews bows which are single cams as well and do prefer the stiffer spined shafts. The charts are a starting point but with single cam bows do like the heavier stiffer shafts . If you have 5575s that may be causing some of your problems and when you put a fixed blade on the end of it, you just magnifie the problem. I see you are in Wayne county If you have never been to the Fin Feather Fur in Ashland , i recommend you take your bow and let them tune your bow for you and get it squared up for you , your knock travel etc. There is a charge for this $20.00 or somewhere around there.
My shafts are the 55/75 which is what the fin recomended i shoot outta my bow, also fin will not tune my bow they said its to old and they werent gonna waste there time n if i wanted to buy a new bow from them they would tune it , if i had the $ for a new bow id have 1 but my old bow shoots good enough for me in time ill get a new bow but it was a slap in the face whne they said i needed to buy a new bow to tune they lost all my bussness used to go there a lot , ty all for your help ill give the susgestions a try ....Freak
Big_Holla
08-09-2012, 01:09 PM
Find another archery shop then!!
A well tuned bow, no matter how old, will certainly help your situation. However you may still have that odd arrow/broadhead combination. First thing you should probably do with the arrow/head that doesn't fly the same is roll it on the corner of a table to see if there is any wobble on the tip of the b-head. Over the years I found that this was more the cause than misaligned vanes.
Well maybe we could get together sometime , i do have a few tools to check your setup for you , i have no problem doing that for you seeing how you live fairly close. I am a little dismayed about the FFF I am friends with the owner (went to school with )and (hunted with) manager so maybe they should be told of this. I may have another place you could go i will check on it my buddy has used this guy before. I dont have a press is the reason you may need him. I wish i did but i have the tools to check my own setups.
W.F. I sent you a PM with some info
Whitetail Freak
08-12-2012, 09:03 PM
I noticed something else tonight while shooting, the top wheel sum times when done shooting it will be on the straight hole cut out at the top n other times it will have the hole with a notch it in at the top its like the wheel or what ever ya call the top 1 is over / under spinning n not going back to comp-let original spot as when i started shooting what can cause this problem? whats this problem called? is there a fix to the problem? is it a problem i should be worried about? any info helps thanks again fellas ....W.F
Since you have a single cam bow , the top wheel is like an idler wheel , it has no effect on timing of the bow, where it starts or stops has no effect with your shooting. Now if it gets bent or gets wore or you can wiggle it from side to side then there would be a problem. But if she is solid no issue there.
Whitetail Freak
08-13-2012, 10:58 AM
Since you have a single cam bow , the top wheel is like an idler wheel , it has no effect on timing of the bow, where it starts or stops has no effect with your shooting. Now if it gets bent or gets wore or you can wiggle it from side to side then there would be a problem. But if she is solid no issue there.
MQ1 .... nope no wobble or bent wheel was just curious about it had noticed it before but never gave much though though it was old age setting in n was forgetting what hole i hung it on after shooting lol , like last night i was shooting at 30yds n could not for the life of me figure why my shots were low then realized i was shooting my 20 pin for my 30pin lol thank you for the info shoot me Ur # in a pm n maybe we can shoot sum time or bow hunt together...............W.F
Greybeard11
08-25-2012, 10:35 PM
I have shot gold tip xt hunters with thunderheads for years and I do believe they shoot better for me if the feathers (in my case) are lined up with the blades. I use the washers that come with the heads as well as the rubber o rings. With the combination of the two has always allowed me to get them lined up. I also agree that putting the inserts in with the broad head attached is a good idea.
Just 1 More
08-26-2012, 10:00 AM
Sounds liike a lot of you guys need to learn how to tune a bow.. I know it's not something evryone has the time or tools to do,, but just learning how to adjust you rest and nock point for broadhead tuning would be a big help.
I used to own mu own little archery shop and still have my press and all the tools needed.. i guess i'm kind of anal about it
Whitetail Freak
08-26-2012, 03:53 PM
Sounds liike a lot of you guys need to learn how to tune a bow.. I know it's not something evryone has the time or tools to do,, but just learning how to adjust you rest and nock point for broadhead tuning would be a big help.
I used to own mu own little archery shop and still have my press and all the tools needed.. i guess i'm kind of anal about it
is that an offer to check my bow out n tune it for free ? :)
I agree with what the others have said! I think/feel as tho the broadhead fletch line up does help also. Your bow MUST be tuned to get proper flight! If that archery shop wouldnt help you out tell them to piss off and find another! With that being said YOU need to be in tune also! Not dogging on you but you may be as much the problem as anything. Find another shop to tune your bow and watch you shoot to see if you are doing something wrong. Older bow or not you should and can get the most out of your set-up and yourself!!
Take care and good luck!
Mike
Whitetail Freak
08-27-2012, 06:25 PM
When i shoot field points my groups are amazing 1 hand i can pull 6 arrows outta my target out to 50yards now my broad head group with 6 arrows out to 50yrs is onside 6in circle (no i will not shoot at a deer past 40yrs just like to c how far i can push my self in practic mode) just would like all 6 b.h to be in a 3 in circle or better , had a guy who used to work at a pro shop watch me shoot n he said my form n release is fine so with that said iam bettin its tuning issue or is 6 arrows in a 6in circle with b.h an ok group?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.